Capachica is a tiny town that serves as the transportation hub for Llachón and Playa Chifrón, where you can find boats to Amantaní and Taquile islands.

Capachica doesn’t have any good lodging, though nearby Llachón has several new places that function like a homestay on the islands but have more developed rooms like a hotel. I stayed with Oliver, whose brother also has a similar homestay/hotel next door.

Capachica is famous for the hats that local women wear. While many places in Peru have their own special hat styles, Capachica is by far my favorite.

Transport

From Juliaca, ask any taxi driver to take you to the “paradero de Capachica.” You can also get a collectivo from both Capachica and Puno directly to Playa Chifrón, which is also a popular place for locals on the weekends. Weekday vans are less frequent, as is transportation during the rainy season.

The drive from Juliaca to Capachica takes about 45 minutes, plus another 5 minute drive from Capachica to Playa Chifrón for the boats to Amantaní. Boats leave between about 5am and 3pm. In the afternoon the winds often pick up, making the crossing rough enough that most boat captains prefer to work only in the morning.