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Phanom Rung

Palace of the gods

Like Phimai, Phanom Rung is a breathtaking example of Khmer architecture, and in some ways is more impressive as it sits atop an extinct volcano, so as you approach along the broad avenue, you feel as if you are visiting a palace of the gods.

What to see

To enter the inner sanctuary, you need to ascend a steep, laterite stairway and cross three naga bridges before reaching the gallery which runs around the site. Above the doorway to the main temple, a lintel featuring a reclining Vishnu was once stolen but then returned from an American museum. Inside is a representation of Nandi, Shiva’s vehicle, along with a Shiva lingam. On each side of the central tower are libraries made of laterite, and the site also contains a few smaller towers.

Prasat Muang Tam

Just down the hill from Phanom Rung is another well preserved Khmer ruin, called Prasat Muang Tam, which is also worth a look while you’re here. It’s surrounded by lotus-strewn ponds and consists of five towers, of which the central one has collapsed. Nevertheless, it’s a tranquil and photogenic location that is worth a visit.

Practical Info Practical Info icon

Opening hours 6am-6pm

Entry B100 for each site, or B150 for both.

Transport No public buses pass the site, so it’s better to hire a vehicle or join a tour from Khorat.

Art & Culture

History

Northeast Thailand (Isaan)

Text © Ron Emmons

Image by Ron Emmons