The local version of ceviche is called cevichocho (above) because it’s always served with lupin seeds. In Cusco lupin seeds are tarwi but in Huaraz they’re called chocho. This is a local favorite that you shouldn’t miss!

There is a whole street of jugerías next to the market, where you can get fresh juice at any time of day and well into the evening. The proximity to the Amazon means fruit is fresh and plentiful.

The city also has fantastic pananderías where you can buy fresh bread at any time of day. Huaraz has at least a dozen names for different styles of small bread rolls and I tried most of them. My favorites were cuay, misthi and coliza. They’re all a bit different and all delicious.

Don’t miss the ice cream either! There are dozens of little ice cream shops around town and by my count they’re all excellent. The nearby town of Carhuaz is famous for ice cream, though ice cream in Huaraz is just as good and just as creative. My favorites were lúcuma and blueberry. (Note on flavors: tuna is cactus fruit, not fish).

Upstairs of the main market there are excellent options for lunch. Most places will serve you soup and a main course for s/7-s/10.

I tried several restaurants for dinner and the only one that impressed me with both food and service was El Fogón. The others were good but unremarkable.