Marrakesh bars tend to fall into two categories: rough street bars that are very male and very smoky; and upmarket tourist places which usually double as restaurants.

One or two places fall between the two extremes, including the Café Atlas on Place Abdelmoumen, the bar at the Grand Hotel Tazi in the Medina, and the easy-going Café du Livre.

Beer

Moroccan beer isn't great, and never reaches 3% ABV, but it's quaffable enough. Flag is the main brand. Stork is an even lighter alternative, Casablanca slightly more flavoursome. Heineken is brewed under licence.

Wine

Moroccan wine isn't at all bad if you choose carefully, but it's best bought at supermarkets or liquor stores, or in licensed restaurants. Reds tend to be better than whites. Thalvin (Domaine des Ouled Thaleb) is usually a good brand. Volubilis (Domaine de la Zouina) are also good.