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Split In-A-Day

In Emperor Diocletian’s footsteps


Split is a stroller’s delight, an endless parade of ancient remains, fine architecture and unexpected piazzas.

Morning: Palace & Peristyle

The former palace complex is at the centre of the modern town, set back from a seafront Riva shaded by palms and cafe awnings that serves as the city’s year-round social focus.

Best place to start exploring the palace is the Peristyle, once the courtyard leading to Diocletian’s private quarters and nowadays a piazza squeezed by a popular cafe on one side and Split Cathedral on the other.

On the opposite side of the Peristyle a narrow alley leads to the former Temple of Jupiter, now the cathedral’s baptistry.

Steps on the southern side of the Peristyle lead up to the Vestibule, a circular space where those summoned to an audience with the Emperor would wait their turn. Beyond, Diocletian’s private quarters have been overlaid by a jumble of (nevertheless rather fine) medieval houses. One of these is occupied by Split Ethnographic Museum, a treasure-house of folklore which is well worth a look.

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Corto Maltese

Good food for all tastes (b, l, d; €-€€)

Pinku Fish & Wine

Fun with fish (l, d; €€-€€€)

Split Archeological Museum

2000-years ago preserved

Split Cathedral & Baptistry

Pagan mausoleum turned church

Split City Museum

Split through the ages

Split Ethnographic Museum

Folklore & fashion

The Daltonist Craft Bar, Split

Craft beer, cocktails & good food (b,l,d; €€)

Text © Jonathan Bousfield

Images by Carine06, C Williams & OSM