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El Valle de Cuelgamuros

Franco's megalomaniac monument to the Nationalist rebels

Valle de los Caídos

Franco's gigantic monument to the Nationalist victory in the Civil War never made any attempt at reconciliation and has been seen by many as a symbol of the way in which the Spanish state has failed to confront the crimes committed by the Francoist regime.

The Monument

A giant stone cross towers over the mausoleum complex which was built by Republican prisoners and is now overseen by Benedictine monks.

The entrance to the underground church is adorned by ominous sword-wielding figures and at the end of a 200-metre long tunnel once lay the tomb of dictator Francisco Franco whose body was finally exhumed and reburied in the family mausoleum in El Pardo in October 2019, followed by the removal of the tomb of José Antonio Primo de Rivera (the founder of the Falange) in 2023.

Behind the cross lie the unmarked graves of thousands of Republican prisoners, whose remains were deposited there without the permission of their families.

The Future

There has been much discussion about turning the site into a memorial for all sides in the Civil War and the socialist government of Pedro Sánchez has made the first in this direction despite the opposition of the centre-right Partido Popular, far right groups and the Benedictine Abbot.

Practical Info Practical Info icon

Open: April–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–7pm, Oct–March 10am–6pm

Entry: €9, free Wed & Sun 3–7pm (3–6pm from October to March) for EU citizens

patrimonionacional.es

+34 918 905 411

1936–1975: Civil War & Franco

Outside the Centre

Text © Patrick López

Image by Marco Chiesa