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Grožnjan

Hilltop beauty

When it comes to the historic towns of inland Istria, Grožnjan is one of the most rewarding, a warren of stone houses set on a green hill with fantastic views of the surrounding valleys. Rather like nearby Motovun, Grožnjan was a thriving market centre with a predominantly Italian-speaking population until World War II, after which most Italian families left and the town became a semi-inhabited museum relic, frozen in time.

The town was slowly re-populated by artists and musicians from all over the former Yugoslavia, earning a reputation as a cultural centre which it still retains. Lining its crooked, rough-paved alleyways are shops selling ceramics, souvenir handicrafts and (occasionally) real art.

Young musicians from all over Europe stay in the town in summer; a season of live jazz and classical performances runs from late June until early September. Another reason to visit is provided by the bric-à-brac market, which takes place outside the town gate every Thursday from Easter until the end of summer.

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Grožnjan is accessible via a minor road that winds its way uphill from the main Buzet-Novigrad road.

Istria

Text © Jonathan Bousfield

Image by JB