Barren beauty & partying

The island of Pag has a reputation for being arid, bare and starkly beautiful. Compelling though this description is, it’s only really true of the eastern side of the island; the western flanks are considerably greener.

Large stretches of the island are covered in sage and other herbs, their taste enhanced by the salt deposited by the sea air. It’s this diet, hungrily consumed by the local sheep, that gives rise to Pag’s hard yellow cheese – a uniquely tangy product that counts as one of Croatia’s greatest gastronomic treats.

Pag Town

A centuries-old centre of the salt industry, with salt pans stretching out to the south of its harbour, Pag Town is a model example of Renaissance town planning. It was built on a grid plan in the fourteenth century, following the abandonment of an earlier settlement due to an earthquake. At its centre is the delicate stonework of an imposing parish church, its main circular window echoing traditional lacemaking patterns. This handicraft is still practiced and many Pag households offer pieces of lace for sale.

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